After much online research, we stay one night at Tallala beach hoping for more sheltered water and a less sun-bed filled experience. And we are not disappointed! The beach is long, with very few people for most of it, but it’s in a cove so the water is a little less of a rollercoaster.

Most people are spread out at one end of the beach where the swimming is the safest. There are still white-topped waves racing in, but they are less regular, less tall.

The water is lovely. Once we are past the breakers we can swim – actually, properly swim – for the first time in Sri Lanka. It feels so good. The water is a deep azure blue. It’s deep and clear and the bottom is sandy. I’m so glad we made the effort to come. Though Tangalla is still my favourite beach for its long, wild emptiness, this comes a close second. Being able to actually swim in the beautiful water is a massive bonus!

On the walk back to our hotel we see a teenage boy and his young brother playing and laughing in the surf, dressed in long skirts that are soaked dark.

I’m raising money for the Alzheimer’s Society. Please sponsor me at http://www.justgiving.com/swimbonnieswim